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Author
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Topic: Plastic Modeling Question...
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Jeeves
Pilot
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posted 11-11- 10:13 AM
   
I am working on the Accurate Miniatures Winterized Il-2 with skiis and have the factory colors on (gray, dark green, and earth brown)...and I now want to add on a wash of white as a camo in the snow...but I want some of the undercolors to show through a bit...what is the best way to add a wash of a color? I know this brings out the details in a model, but I have yet to know how to do it correctly...BTW-- I am using Testors Model Masters flat enamels.------------------
Brought to you by the campaign for a better Dauntless! Jeeves =FC= IP: Logged |
d0gmA
General
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posted 11-11- 11:06 AM
Personally I acrylics for all my modelling and to do washes with acrylics I just use a half capfull of water or acrylic thinner then dip my brush in the color I want and then stir the paint on the brush into the cap of thinner til when I brush it accross my fingerprint the paint runs into the valleys and flows the way I want ( personall preference) typically the consistancy of indian ink. Then depending on the purpose of my wash I grab the apropriate brush and go to town. I use a fine brush to get in small valleys and a larger brush to simulate things like oil leaks ect.Hope that gives you a bit of help Do you know how to dry brush ? Thats my fav trick
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William Gall
http://www.simfiles.com IP: Logged |
semmern
Pilot
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posted 11-11- 01:56 PM
If you have an airbrush, you're probably best off painting a coat of white using light pressure on your compressor, and thinning the paint a little lesser than usual. Allow the summer camo to show through in splotches here and there.
If you don't have an airbrush, use drybrushing, like dOgmA said.I airbrush my winter camo-ed planes freehand, and I'm very pleased with the results. Last winter thing I did was a Fw-189 Uhu. [This message has been edited by semmern (edited 11-11-2000).] IP: Logged |
Jeeves
Pilot
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posted 11-11- 10:53 PM
Hmm... don't have an airbrush yet...I guess I have put it off knowing how spastic I am. I have been painting all my planes freehand so far and am now on # 21  Although the first couple were pretty pathetic, I seem to have mastered the art of painting freehand...I love the German camo schemes best though-- they are more geometric in shape. But this is the first time I have covered up a camo scheme and want to do it right...but the model stores around here are scarce. Will the acrylic enamel paint my wife has work for this d0gmA? Thanks guys for the tips...I may have to buy an airbrush one of these days...but right now I'd rather spend money on models I have found a few great tools that I use regularly and that are cheap!! For one-- Sears has these rachet clamps that sell for under $10-- they come in a couple different sizes and work great for clamping fuselages and wings together...up to now I have been using clothespins, but they aren't good for fat fuselages, and rubber bands don't seem to do the trick. Also-- I use this mini-Swiss Army knife I was given as a gift for being in someone's wedding and it works great in many ways...the little scissors are perfect for cutting sprues close to the edge, the file works for those tiny places...the toothpick is a good mixer, and the tweezers hold tiny parts well. Now-- who the hell died and made me the Martha Stewart of modeling...God help us all!!!  ------------------
Brought to you by the campaign for a better Dauntless! Jeeves =FC= IP: Logged |
semmern
Pilot
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posted 11-12- 03:30 AM
Well, if you don't have an airbrush, get one!! When you get it, you suddenly can't think of why you didn't get it before!
But the best way to do this freehand is to drybrush the white camo. If you apply a wash with acrylics, it won't cover at all, and it will be as gloss as a mirror.
As for the paint your wife has, what brand is it???IP: Logged |
Jeeves
Pilot
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posted 11-12- 08:11 AM
Well-- it is something she got from the local craft store...Apple Barrel Colors (kinda feminine, n'est pas?) Acrylic Gloss Enamel...and on the side it says-- Indoor/Outdoor, Permanent, Fast Drying, Waterbase, and (here's the kicker) High Gloss...so it seems not to be a good choice...man the hobby stores here only sell Model Masters  What is a good choice for Acrylics? Maybe I can get it online?------------------
Brought to you by the campaign for a better Dauntless! Jeeves =FC= IP: Logged |
semmern
Pilot
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posted 11-12- 10:20 AM
Well, I don't know about those paints, but you may try them on a piece of scrap plastic and see how that works.As for other acrylics, go for Tamiya. I haven't used oil since I started using them.
You can try phoning Tamiya America on
800/826-4922 to find out if they sell them near you. Oh, and, check your mail. IP: Logged |
Werner Molders
Pilot
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posted 11-12- 11:51 AM
I'm in a similar boat to Jeeves's. I don't have an airbrush, and Model Masters/Testors holds a virtual monopoly in town. I have this P47D that I really want to do in gabreski's colours, but that'll be hard with the feathered edges between the light and dark on his wings/fuse.How do you dry brush? Werner ------------------
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Jeeves
Pilot
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posted 11-12- 10:43 PM
As fas as I can tell (and d0gmA or semmern will hopefully correct me)-- you get some paint on your brush and basically brush most of it off on a towel or rag and use the trace amounts that are left for detailing...am I right guys?------------------
Brought to you by the campaign for a better Dauntless! Jeeves =FC= IP: Logged |
Gunner
Pilot
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posted 11-12- 11:18 PM
Yes Jeeves,That is the proper way to dry brush. I also will use the thinner in a small amount of paint to drag across colors to mix . Siggi is the man to ask. He has helped me several times when I was getting started. He knows all the tricks. -=BAB=- Gunner IP: Logged |
semmern
Pilot
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posted 11-13- 02:18 AM
But if you're going to cover (almost) the whole model in white, I suggest you brush on several layers of paint until you get the proper coverage. Then fade the white paint into the camo, also using drybrushing to 'drag' the paints into each other.IP: Logged |
Werner Molders
Pilot
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posted 11-13- 01:21 PM
Thanks Jeeves! One thing though, if all you've got left on your brush is a trace amount of paint, won't you get a series of thin lines on your model when you go to paint? Like if you held a collection of very thin pencils and ran them across the surface? Or do you hold the brush at a large angle from the vertical and drag the sides of the bristles against the model?Werner ------------------
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semmern
Pilot
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posted 11-13- 02:38 PM
Nope. If you drybrush lightly, paint will only hit the highest areas of the model (i.e. hinges, rivets etc.), but if you repeat several times at the same spot, you will eventually achieve coverage.IP: Logged |
Jeeves
Pilot
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posted 11-15- 04:18 PM
OK...well- as it stands I have still not found any acrylics and there are no Tamiya dealers nearby...so is it at all possible to do a wash with enamels? I would hate to have to dry-brush a whole plane...that would take a looooong time!!On a high note-- I just got some birthday $$ and blew it on some great models online-- all 1/48 scale-- Tamiya's A6M2 Zero, their Beaufighter, and Revell's Ju-88. Woo-Hoo!!! BTW...I did e-mail Siggi but I haven't heard squat from him yet....c'mon Siggi! ------------------
Brought to you by the campaign for a better Dauntless! Jeeves =FC= [This message has been edited by Jeeves (edited 11-15-2000).] IP: Logged |
semmern
Pilot
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posted 11-16- 05:55 AM
Of course you can do it with enamels. But if you don't want to drybrush, I suggest you cover the whole plane in white (allowing the green/brown/gray camo to peek through here and there), then when the white is dry, apply patches of the original camo here and there, then remove all paint from the brush, and then use just thinner on it to fade the two colors into each other.IP: Logged |
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