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Author
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Topic: Sclae model aircraft
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Snake
Pilot
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posted 02-11- 06:55 PM
   
Hi,
typo= Scale Aircraft
I'm building the B-24 Liberator at the moment. I have started to paint like Pete Hawks ie early european olive drab. I have seen lots of colour pics of a green top with light grey on the bottom. But my kit tells me to use a colour that is like greeny grey. Where there planes that colour in WWII. In other words were the colours underside similar to topside. Ignore silver aircraft.Thanks
Snake [This message has been edited by Snake (edited 02-11-2000).] IP: Logged |
dauntless851
Pilot
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posted 02-11- 09:55 PM
Snake. For some color info on the U.S. B-24 head on over to the following link:
http://www.tholianweb.com/cgi-bin/amd2.pl Goto "Aircraft Type" and find B-24 Liberator. Check off the "show thumbnails" box and then click on "display selected decals". The color pics have 2 pages to look at. Usually the second page shows the underside color. In the case of the B-24 it's Neutral Gray. Most references for the olive-drab B-24 models have neutral gray for the underside color. Model paints are available with the "neutral gray" name on the bottle. Check your favorite hobby supplier. One other point, if you're making a non-U.S. version of the B-24, then it's possible that the underside could be green-gray as there were other countries that also used B-24s. Hope this helps. Dauntless851 IP: Logged |
Snake
Pilot
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posted 02-12- 07:02 AM
Thanks!IP: Logged |
Mirthain
Pilot
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posted 02-12- 02:27 PM
Word of suggestion for building models... unless the company is known for detail... Verlinden for example, then go with what you find from research and ignore the instructions that came with the kit. Usually they just go with something that seems right, or they have one plane they found with those colors.
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Mirthain=FC=
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semmern
Pilot
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posted 02-13- 04:57 AM
Paint it Olive Drab. Almost all US bombers were painted Olive Drab over a Neutral Grey bottom, but some were also patched over with a lighter green, can't remember it's name.Thought I was the only one building models here.
Semmern [This message has been edited by semmern (edited 02-13-2000).] IP: Logged |
Snake
Pilot
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posted 02-13- 02:16 PM
What era do you like most Semmern? I love WW2 but have some modern ones too. You should post pics. Maybe if there are more people interested they could make a new area for it.Snake IP: Logged |
Pete Hawk
Pilot
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posted 02-13- 11:01 PM
I'm getting ready to buy my first model in years. An F-14 Tomcat by a Japanese company (not Tamiya). This thing costs $60 and has metal landing gear. The box feels pretty heavy and the guy said it's a very high quality model. Just looking at the pix of it on the box made me want it. Looks really nice.I'll post some pics of it later on. IP: Logged |
Mirthain
Pilot
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posted 02-13- 11:21 PM
Yeah, I am looking to get a 1/48 P-38.... gotta do it.... ;}
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Mirthain=FC=
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Werner Molders
Pilot
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posted 02-13- 11:49 PM
While on the subject of model a/c... How do you guys apply glue? I have both liquid and gel, and either the liquid runs (which seriously messes up clear bits) or the gel oozes. I tell ya, I've gotten really good at mounting my models so the mistakes are all out of sight! Also, I just picked up a Thunderbolt kit, but I have no idea how to do a checkerboard engine cowling. Any suggestions? If possible, without an airbrush please - I don't have one. Werner  ------------------
DOWNLOADS+PILOT ROSTER+FAN SITE INNOVATION=B.C.A.T.P. Visit Today! IP: Logged |
Jeeves
Pilot
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posted 02-14- 04:59 AM
I have found Hasegawa (sp?) to be pretty good- I ordered a Stuka from them a few years ago- it was the only kit that I found that actually had a swastika- I guess everyone else is too PC to be historically correct . I haven't modelled it in a while though as I have run out of room to put them (I have two out of three of my wife's china cabinet filled with models)- and my paints have dried up  . But once we move into our new house this fall I plan on starting again (I'll have my own office and will fill it with models IP: Logged |
Mirthain
Pilot
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posted 02-14- 08:44 PM
Werner,
When they say apply a small amount of the gel/tube glue.. they mean it. Draw a very small line of glue, like the size of a scale antenna. It should be no more than 1/2 of the thickness of the plastic.
For Liquid, actually put the parts together, then using just the corner of the bristles, put a drop carefully on the joint. It will cavatate(that is run along the joint) and leave it till dry.
Checkerboard huh? With a brush it would be a daunting task that I would never attempt without an Airbrush... but to the rescue are several Decal companies that have that pattern as a decal that you can apply. Just look around on the web a bit and you will find TONS of resouces for decal printers. Many of them will also make a decal from a drawing or pic of yours...
Hope this helps....------------------
Mirthain=FC=
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Werner Molders
Pilot
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posted 02-14- 11:37 PM
Thanks Mirthain, I'll give it a shot! One more question though, what do you use to apply gel glue - a toothpick? Thanks.Werner ------------------
DOWNLOADS+PILOT ROSTER+FAN SITE INNOVATION=B.C.A.T.P. Visit Today! IP: Logged |
Snake
Pilot
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posted 02-15- 05:22 AM
How would you use an airbrush toapply checkerboard designs? I have several german aircraft and they all have swastikas. I buy from Airfix.
www.airfix.com Snake IP: Logged |
semmern
Pilot
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posted 02-15- 09:33 AM
I mostly build WWII aircraft. Right now I'm doing Tamiya's 1/48 Mossie Mk.IV. In my "pending" heap, I've got a Nieuport 17 in 1/32, Testor's Stealth, also 1/32, Tamiya's new Swordfish, (I got the first one ever sold in Norway) an Italeri Hercules in 1/48, and a kit I'm itching to get started on: Tamyia's old 1/48 scale Lancaster. I also build a few tank dioramas now and then. I mostly build Tamiya kits, as they are great, with good fit and a lot of details.
Concerning that glue question, I use gap-filling super glue, so I don't have to fill and sand the seams later on, and liquid cement on kits fitting well. Liquid cement should be applied with a brush while holding the parts together. When airbrushing chequerboards, I first paint the dark colour, then I measure and draw squares where the light colour is to be applied, then mask either with masking-tape squares, or liquid-masking agents.------------------
We shall fight on the beaches, in the streets, on the sea, in the air.... and in SDOE!!! IP: Logged |
Mirthain
Pilot
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posted 02-15- 08:24 PM
Something I found kind of accidently was that Testors has little "Funnels" for their tube glue. Fits right over the top of the tube, and has a nice small tip. But I actually don't use anything but patience and ALOT of control. I prefit everything and get the fit nice, then lots of times, I will do a quick sand over the parts to be fitted and then apply the glue. It allows the glue to blend the parts more effectivly. I like superglue to an extent, but mostly I will actually use the gap filling super glue for filling any gaps that happen to show up. ;} Or applying metal parts to plastic. Also something that is a cost effective alternative to buying expensive super glue is using womens nail superglue. It is the same stuff but like 1-2 american dollars less... I can get 2 tubes of womens nail glue for like 79 cents...;}
Actually that tip is from an old Fine Scale Modeller Magazine.. ;}
I would look at some of the newer superthin Decals for most elaborate paint schemes. Don't forget to use some dull agent after the decal is dry though. Otherwise the decal will be shiny while the rest of the paint job is flat. really distracting. Also, if you are VERY patient, and have some good control over knife or scissors, you can trim the decals so that the little border of clear is gone. That helps alot even with shinier decals because it will look like the "Paint" is just shiny, not like a decal.
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Mirthain=FC=
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